Sewing-machine.



H, HAWES.

SEWING MACHINE.

,111111101111011 HLED 11111.15, 1691.

99;?'1 Patented. Aug. 1,1911.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

ATTORNEY.

11. E. 11AWEs SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED JAN. l5, 1B91.

Patented Aug.V 1, 1911.

A TTOHIVEK.

Patented Aug. 1, 1911. F 4 SIITS-SHEET 3. e W

H. E. HAWES.

SEWING* MACHINE.

APPLIOATION FILED 11111.15, 1891.

d l M Patented Aug. 1,1911..

4 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

W/TNESSES V TTOHNEY.

i y UNiTED sTATEs PATENT orErpE.

'HERBERT' E. HAWEsoF BEooKIYN, NEW YORK, `.assrciNoa BY DIRECT AND MESNE ASSIGNMENTS, oF ONE-HALF To PHILIP o. PECK, or NEW YORK, N. Y.

' I aaefzis.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Specication of Letters Patent.

Application led January 15, 1891. Serial No. 377,798.

more particularly mechanism for uniting or sewing together the abutting adjacent edges .of knitted or woven fabrics or other materials, of which the following is a full,

. clear, and exact description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in whichl Figure 1 is a/perspective View of certain operative parts of a sewing machine containing my improvements, showing particularly those parts required to convey ower and the required movement to the un er looper and transfer hook hereinafter described. Fig. 2, isla perspective view of other portions of said machine showing mechanism whereby power and the required motion are conveyed to the needles, upper looper, presser feet, feed mechanism, etc. Fig. 3, is an enlarged plan of stud which actuates sliding plate. Fig.

,4, is an enlarged cross sectional viewof cloth plate, stitch plate' and supplementary stitch plate and connections taken on dotted line m. fr. of Fig. 9. Fig. 5', is an enlarged plan `of end' of upper looper and its thread showing their relation to needles 16 and17, during one portion of their movement. The

said yupper looper in this figure being shown in a reversed position from that illustrated vin Fig. 2, as hereinafter more fully described. Fig. 6, is an enlarged plan of portion of the under looper, threads, transfer hook, and needles, illustrating their relative position in relation to each other ata certain stagein the stitch. Fig. 7, is an enlarged detail, a perspective view of'device whereby oscillating movement is given to the smoothing bar 60 and its foot 61. Fig. 8, is another enlarged plan of end of upper-looper showing its relation to the needles and the stitch at a dilferent stage in its movement-from thatillustrated in Fig. 5. The upper looper here is also shown in the same position as in Fig. 5, that is in a position` reversed 'from that shown in Fig. 2, and illustratin the application of such a looper in a di erent arrangement of the parts of said'machne `as will be hereafter described. Fig. 9, is

an enlarged top view of the cloth plate, stitch plate, and sections of the needles, showing their relation to each other. Fig. 10, is an enlarged plan view of the upper side of my improved seam as produced by my said machine.l Fig. y11, is an enlarged plan view of the under side of myV improved seam. Fig. 12, is an enlarged view of the lower portion of the needles, and of the end of the under looper and of the transfer hook, and threads at a certain stage of the stitch. Fig. 18, is an enlarged View of end of needle 16, and transfer hook and threads at another stage of the stitch. Fig. 14, is an enlarged View of the ends of the needles, and of the under-looper, and endof the` transfer hook, and threads at. another stage of the stitch.` Fig. 15, is an enlarged view of the end of needle 16, end of transfer hook and threads at another stage of the stitch. Fig. 16,.is an enlarged plan of the end of the under-looper, transfer hook, threads and needles, at another stage of the stitch. Fig. 17 is a plan view of my supplementary retaining plate showing theslot. Fig. 18 is a central longitudinal vertical section of my stitch forming plate. Fig. 19 is a vertical cross section of Fig. 18, taken in a transverse plane at right angles tol the longitudinal axis thereof and passing through the center of connecting screw 99 of Fig. 9.

Figf20 is a perspective detail view of the horizontal oscillating under-thread (the first auxiliary thread) carrying needle or looper and a vertical oscillating transfer hook showing that face of. the double cam 69, which is the reverse of that shown in Fig. 1, and showing the cross-shaft 68 in sect-ion cut off at the line of juncture thereof with s aid double cam and said Fig. 20, also showing the'angular rocker 73 and pitman 76, connecting latter with said transfer hook. Fig. 21 is a detail front View of the forward end of the machine head plate, a perspective View of which is shown in Fig. 1, and also showing side view of upper looper carrying y superior or second auxiliary thread and.of

the vertical upper looper shaft. Figs. 22 and 23 are views partly plan andpartlyin section of the upperlooper and its connections, each figure showing a central horizontal section of its Yactuating cam, and also' the upper looper in the same position as illustrated in Patented-Aug'. l, 1911. y

Fig. 2 and in 'a'r'everse position from the alternative form of construction illustrated by- Figs. 5 and 8.

' bular garments such as drawers and the like and their subsequent removal from the sewing mechanisms may be facilitated, also the edge of the material at the line of juncture more perfectly and smoothly prepared and brought into position to receive the seam,

.also to provide means for securing a smooth and uniform loosely sewed seam, and the preventing of puckeringof the materials by irregular and undue tension upon the thread.

My present. inventions relate more.' particularly to the hereinafter particularly described and claimed means for facilitating and perfecting the seamin of the raw cut edges of knit goods or the like.

Figs. 10 and 11 illustrate forms of seams i such a's may be produced by the aid of my said improvements.

An organized sewing machine containing my said improvements also comprises many of the usual and well known features of sewing machines, as the same are at present well understood by those skilled in the art of constructing them. I assume that these common features are so well known as. to require no description here in order that my present inventions may be understood.

Referring to the drawings, 2. is an ordinary sewing'machine head plate, presenting such obvious mechanical changes as are reguired to adapt it to the specific useof my invention. i 1., is the bed lplate of the machine which, 1s so constructed as to present several novel features which will be hereinafter more fully described.

3., is anr ordinary needle bar to which 5" vertical reciprocating movement is conveyed in the usual way through the needle arm 4., operating upon an arm-stud 6.,and connected .Vith main shaft 5., by pitman 8., and eccentric 7. ,Power being applied to the shaft the needle bar is reci rocated in the usual manner and is provide with a pair of needles 17, and 16, each eyed near its point, and each carrying a thread provided with `the usual spools and instrumentalities for securing proper tension, and which two needles carry the main pair of threads c. c., Figs. 10 and 11.

One of the featuresof my invention consists in combination with other parts 4of the peculiar shaped and positioned bed plate which I" construct in the form of a projectbeams ing and over-hanging bed or arm, which may be designated as U shaped, the surface of the bed being so formed and arranged in relation to the working parts of the machine that the manipulation and stitching of the materials to be united is very greatly facilitated and expedited. These results are obtained by so constructing the mechanism and parts of the machine that the free or unsupported end of the bed plate l, shall .extend in a direction away from the operator and parallel to the direction toward which the materials are fed, as hereinafter described, the feed mechanism being adapteddto move the material towardsaid free en Below the surface of the bed Aplate 1. l arrange a horizontal oscillating underthread (or first auxiliary thread) carrying needle or looper and a vertical oscillating transfer hook 71. The under looper 70 is rigidly secured to a vertical shaft 92 adapted to be rotated about its vertical axis see Fig. 1. where top surface -of bed plate is removed and also side boxings of U shaped varm to show arrangement of mechan ism within. The under looper is provided with a vertical eye at its extremity through which is carried the under or first auxiliary thread already referred to (see Figs. 6 and 16). The requisite horizont-al oscillation is communicated to the under looper Y 7 0 through the said pivoted vertical shaft from the main source of power, from main shaft 5., through proper gearing, preferably miter worm gears 22.-, to cross shaft 23 supported in suitable bearing 1011, thence through appropriately laced gears 60 and (37, also preferably miter worm gears, through cross shaft 68 supported in suitable bearings 102, and 103, to double cam 69. This double cam is provided withirregular cam groovey or channel 112, as shown in the face thereof fronting the observer in Fig. 1. It is also in the drawings whereby movement is allowed between theunited parts relatively to each other in several directions. The main shaft being rotated it will be apparent from the foregoing that an oscillating curved movementin a horizontal plane will be communicated to the eye of the looper 70. In the afore mentioned-cam;l groove 117 Fig.

isc

l 69, travels another stud provided with roller 2O on the opposite side of the double cam 70 Fig.` 20 which is secured to anotherangular rocker 73, which may be called the transfer hook rocker, and which like looper rocker 72 also oscillates upon rocker shaft 74 and connected with vertically swinging transfer. hook 71, by means of a pitman 76.

similar to 75, and likewisehaving ball and socket joint connections of attachment.

As the transfer hook 71 is fixed to shaft 77 horizontally pivoted in suitable bearings (see 78) as shown in Fig. 1, it will be understood that the rotation of the main-shaft 5 will, by reason of the mechanism aforementioned, convey to said transfer hook an oscillating motion in a vertical plane.

It will be observed that the axis of the horizontal shaft 77 is pivoted obliquely to the direction of the feed for the reason which will be hereinafter described- 54 is an upper looper which` carries the aforesaid superior or second auxiliary thread through a horizontal eye in theend thereof Figs. 5 and 8, and carries said thread backward and4 forward .across the line of the feed movement directly behind the needles as shown insaid last mentioned figures.

` The required movement is conveyed to 54 as vgroove A116 contained in the cam 56.

follows 54 is fixed to vertical upper looper shaft 55, Fig. 2, Figs. 21-23 which partially revolves around its vertical axis within suitable bearings 113, and 114 in head 2. Rigidly 4attached to shaft 55 iS a stud 115 which connects with cam 56 by Aball rolll 58 (Figs. 22 and 23) fitted within -an irregular cam stud 115 is inserted within the ball roll 58 so as to slide inwardly and outwardly thereof to an extent sufficient t0 accommodate the changes of position caused by the revolution of the cam.

Motion being communicated from `the -main shaft 5 through appropriate gears (preferably miter worm gears) 22 22 and 24 to the feed shaft 25, the cam 56 is caused to rotate and to communicate by'means of the connections above described, therequired movement to the upper looper 54. Itwill be observed that the eyed extremity of this upper loopen 54 is notv shown in Fig. 2 but passes beneath the feed feet through' an appropriate slotted opening or looper space 53. The method of making the connections which I have just described is so very obvious to any person skilled in the art that I do not deem it requisite to a complete understanding thereof to further illustrate by drawings or vdescribe the same more than I have done'. The required forward movement of the materials to be united may be secured in any convenient manner, as by any of the numer- The and combined with means for imparting thereto the requisite movement; but it vis important that therfeeding mechanism employed should contact with and actuate the fabrics evenly, equally and simultaneously on both sides of the line of union. drawings illustrate particularly the use of special feeding instrumentalities which Ik have to this end invented and which are` more fully .described in my co-pending application for Letters Patent, Serial No. 605690, filed January 31,1911, consisting of The f a pair of feed bars 9 and 10 (Fig. 2) having y bifurcated feeder feet which straddle the line of union of the goods to control the fabric from above simultaneously, on both sides of that line, are suitably connected by appropriate mechanism with the main shaft of the machine so as alternately to move the goods in the required direction, and to the requisite extent." The bars 9 and 10 are provided with slots as shown in Fig. 2 through which loosely pass pivot blocks 18, Fig. 2,

loosely journaled upon a pivot 20 rigidlysecured. to head 2. 33, 34, 35 and 36, Figs. 2

`and 21, represent guide pins likewise secured in said head and disposed to pass through lower slots 1n said bars, as shown 1n Fig. 2 and 1n my said appllcatlon.

To assist in smoothin out and resentint the abutting edges of the materials in propel` position to be perforated Vby the needles, .l have devised a smoothing bar. This bar is illustrated'in Fig. 2 by 60 a portion of its length between those parts of the head 2 which are lettered a, b, being broken away and removed to show the operation of other parts behind. This smoothing bar is journaled vertically in the head 2 having its axis parallel with needle bar 3 and has secured to its lower end a V shaped plate 61 which presses upon the upper surface of the materials as they approach the feed feet. It will be observed that said V-shaped plate presents a plurality (in this instance two) of operative edges disposed an ularly relatively to thedirection of the eed and converging toward each other and to a point on the line of juncture of the edges o'f the abutting fabrics being'the medial line between the needles, whereby the rough edges of 4the fabric are progressively bent over and folded down toward the line of juncture prior to being secured finally in this desired position by the stitches.

' The bar 60 with its attached plate 61 is vcaused to partially rotate horizontally aboutv its vertical axis by means of the pin 62 projecting from the clamp 12, which connects the needle arm 4 with the needle bar 3, and

which pin travels upward and downward according to the motion o f the needle bar Within the helical slot"63 cut in the bar 60 (see Fig. 7 Vertical movement is given when desired, to the smoothing bar l60 by means raised abut against and serve to raise the each other.

inserting 'plate 64 shown in Fig. 7 but not shown in Fig. 2, which is kept in position by and travels up and down upon looper shaft '55 smoothing bar 60 and needle bar .3' as shownlin Fig. 7 normally rests upon the top of the head 2 over feed bars 9 and 10 and which, when sufficiently raised by-said feed bars, as aforesaid, lifts under and against the smoothing bar head 65 and thereby raises the latter.

To facilitate the movement of the 'materials and prevent their gathering or puckering I have devised a st-itch forming plate 95 of novel'construction and operation. The surface of the clothA plate 93 is provided with a longitudinal opening within which fits and reeiprocates the said stitch forming plate 95 '(see Fig. 9). The longitudinal sides of said plate are flanged las shown. in Fig. 19

and are madeto fit correspondingly shaped grooves in the cloth plate 93 (see Fig. 1).

'lo keep the reciprocatingl stitch forming plate 95 imposition there is secured to` its under 'side and under the cloth plate a sup.- pleme'ntary or retaining plate 96.- The stitch forming plate 95 extends as shown in the drawings between the needles 16 and 17 in the direction of the movement of the feed and at this end thereof it is Vtapered on its under side Fig. 18 to facilitate the withdrawal from the stitch. The supplementary or retaining plate 96 is provided with slot 96at within which engages and slides'a stud 97 carried on the uppert end' of the under looper 70. Thus the oscillation of the under loopercauses the stitch forming plate to reclprocate.

-The machinel is connected in the usual manner with any suitable source of power by means of the driving wheel or pulley 107. The materials to be united are next placed upon the cloth plate so that the edges `to' be sewed together shall abutagainst As will 'of course be understood the materials to be united are so placed in position under the needles that each needle will when' brought down perforate a different. one of the but-ting edges and the line of juncture of' the materials should extend in the direction of the stitch plate and directly over it.

I have not shown in the drawings the threads or bobbins or tensions except to a llimited extent as these are all so well understood that any person skilled in the art will understand the o eration of my machine wlthout specific il ustrations of them.. On the top of the head 2 I have shown common tensions 109, 110 and 112 for the three upper threads sald threads being `carried to the sald tensions by suitable ides in the usual manner. The thread which is used by the under looper is carried thereto through suitable 'arrangement of guides within vthe bobbins carrying the threads may be in anyy convenient place4 relatively to the machine.

The materials having been-brought into position as aforesaid, power is applied and motion communicated to the various'parts of the machine. The needles carrying the main pair of threads are caused to descend and perforatel the materials on each side of the line, of juncture. i have reached the limit of their downward motion, the continued operation of the machine causes the to rise again through the material where y two loops of the main threads are formed on the under side of the materials as shown in Fig. 12. y The under looper 70 immediately advances through these loops bearing the first auxiliary thread and its advance movement is caused as follows: The requisite power is transmitted from the main shaft 5 through the gearings hereinbefore described causing the double cam 69 to rotate. The cam groove or channel in which the looper roll 87 works is so lshaped and placed relatively to the looper rocker 72, the looper and the connecting parts', as to give the desired movement to the thread carrying eyeof the looper at the requisite moment of time required to cause latter to pass through both the under loops of main threadcar- -rying with it the first auxiliary thread as entered them. This retrograde movement of the under looper is caused by the continued rotation of the cam' 69 as will be readily understood and the said under looper leaves behind it within said two loops of main thread a loopof the first auxiliary As soon as the needles'.

thread due to the interlocking of said first L auxiliary thread with the transfer hook 71 as shown in Figs. 6, 14, 13, 15 and 16, which illustrate among other things this retention of' the first auxiliary thread by the transfer hook at different stages of the movement. After the under looper is passed through the loop of main thread and retrograded through the same, as aforesaid, the needles have, by the continued action of the machinery been simultaneously withdrawn u ward through the materialswhereby, as will-I threadwhich has been const-ructed as aforein Fi'g. 20 of the drawings the required traction of the under looper retains said loop 4diminished in size until tightenedon the yengagement with the first auxiliary thread 4the reti-acting movement `of the under looper on its upper side as shown in `Fig`.,14 into Acombined movement of the transfer hook 71 the purpose of illustrationv I have deemed it two main threads, as aforesaidhave been under side of the materials against and s o as to embrace the loop of the first #auxiliary said. By means of the cam groove shown on the opposite side ofthe double cam 69- movement is communicated .to the. transfer hook 7l'through the transfer rockeru and the other connecting parts already described. The period and 4extent of the required movement of t-he transfer hook being determined by theshape yof said cam groove, and its position relative to the other parts of the mechanism in thesame way as the movement and periodicity of the under looper is determined as aforesaid.

The position ofthe transfer hook and the path of its movementis such as to insure its at. the moment `when the under looper beginsv its withdrawal or retraction through the loops of main thread, hereinbefore described,

causing, as will be well-understood a loop of hrstauxlliary thread tobethrown out which the end of the transfer hook passes as shown in Fig. 14 and on the continuedreof first auxiliary thread yas shown in Figs. 15 and 16. The said loop of first auxiliary thread is carried backward and obliquely toward the line of juncture of the materials so as to occupy the position shown in Fig. 6 and in which needle 16 may pass through it on its nextdescent and is so carried by the and the forward movement of the materials caused by the feed motion imparted as aforesaid to the goods. The extent of lateral motion of the materials thus produced is as will be well understood comparatively slight being sufficient only to bring them into position for thepnext stitch. 4

The upper 'looper 54 carries the superiorl auxiliary threadin a horizontal eye near its extremity as shown in Figs. 5 and 8.

It is apparent that the upper looper shaft 55 withv its connections might-perhaps preferably be mounted upon the opposite side of the feed bars from that shown in Fig. 2 whereby it would be brought into closer connectionwith its actuating cam 56'in which case of course' the upper looper would' be reversed in position and would enter under the feed bars from the opposite side from that shown in Fig. 2. Figs., 5 and 8 represent the upper looper in the latter position and Figs. 21,A 22 and 23 represent the upper looper in theposition shown in Fig. 2. For

better to illustrate the upper looper in the l The upper looper cam 56 already described 'contains a cam groove or channel so shaped as to cause the upper looper shaft 55, through its already described connections, to oscillate horizontally about its vertical axis a certain limited distance in opposite directions and intermediately to remain quiescent, whereby at each revolution of the cam'the end of the upper 'looper tis caused to advance toward the needles and across the line of juncture of the materials and to remain quiescent in that position until the next feed movement has commenced, and then to retractaway from the needles and again across the line of juncture ofthe materials to its original position, where it. again remains quiescent until its next forward movement,

as aforesaid. By this means, as will, readily be perceived, the thread-carrying over-looper is caused to cross the line of juncture of the materials at and during the time in which theneedles are elevated out of the material; to hold the second auxiliary thread across the lineof juncture of the materials during the forward movement of thefeedand until the needles have again descended andl penetrated the materials; to then lretract at lthe next feed movement leaving the thread j caught or interlocked between the two main threads and the upper surface of the inaterials. This step in the process is partially illustrated in Figs. 5 and 8, in which Fig. 5 represents the upper looper at the conlmencement of its forward movement or advance over the line of juncture of the materials and Fig. 8 represents the 'same as the looper` is beginning to retracton the next stitch. y

The' result of the movements of my machine which have thus far been described may nowV be summarized as follows: The main threads have beencarried through the materials and formed into a pair of, loops on the under side thereof. Through this pair of loops a loop of the first auxiliary thread has likewise been-passed. Said pair of lqops of main thread carrying said loop of first auxiliary thread have also been. moved forward a certain distance by the feed movement and the end of said loop of first auxiliary thread has been caught and held against the feed movement and also carried backward obliquely and is now in position to be passed throughon the next descent of the needles, as shown in Fig. 6 in which the threads or stitches on both sides of the cloth are shown as thou h the materials were in Fig. 6, and by the same movement the main threads are caused to descend upon and bind the second auxiliary thread to the upper surface ofthe materials as before described.

It is a well known fact that the movement of 'materials to be united with abutting edges under the impulse of the feed and affected by the action of the needles and the natural curl in the edge of the materials themselves, result in the materials being presented to the needles iny undesirable positions. It is of the greatest importance, noty only to the appearance, but also to the security of the seam that the materials should be perforated by the needles while lying flat, and in as nearlyas possible the same plane so that the `lne of juncture may be correctly'maintained. I have de-` vised, for the purpose of bringing the materials in the proper position under the feed bars and the needles the smoothing plate 61 attached to the foot of smoothing bar 60. The means whereby this smoothing bar is caused to rotate horizontally about its axis has already been described. The effect of the smoothing plate is to press upon the upper surface ,of the materials along the l line of Atheir abutting edges and by reason of its shape and its peculiar oscillation from right to left coincidentally with sufficient pressure, to completely smooth out and straighten all inequalities in the materials as they are drawn and pass beneath it and thus present them in the desired position and condition to be operated upon by the needles and other parts ofthe mechanism described. It will be understood that the weight of thesmoothing bar and plate will usually afford the requisite pressure, but that this may be increased in anyl convenient way as for instance by a suitably applied and adjusted spring.

The effect of the usual tensions necessarily used uponthe threads is such as to cause some materials to becomevmore or less un.`

underwear.

duly drawn together or puckered along the edge of juncture after losing the support afforded by the needles. For the purpose of obviating this tendency and of producing a juncture -of the materials in which the length of thread -in each stitch shall be exactly what is required to unite theabutting edges and hold them in exact juncture with# out being so unduly'shortened as to produce a hard and rigid seam, I-have devised the stitch plate 95. The means wherebythe required reciprocating motion is communi-y cated to this plate have already been described. The operation of the plate is -as 4 follows: The position of this plateis such that it underlies centrally the line of juncture ofthe materials and projects forward of the needles and between them. The.) l'

needles 16 and 17 descend on each side o the plate and close to it, as shown in Fig. 9. As the materials move forward under the action of the feed the completed stitches are carried along, embracing the plate, which being of rigid material holds the stitches apart at thelr proper relativedistance, and prevents the materials being drawn together under the stress of the thread tensions. The

length of ,the projecting portion of'the stitch plate is sufficient to accommodate a vvseries of several stitches and to carry its restrainin influence to the point on the seam at which the stitches are beyond risk of -disturbance by the tension of the threads. The movement of the materials caused by the feed would of itself in many cases be almost or quite sufficient to withdraw the stitches from the plate, which is tapered at itslforward extremity, as shown in Fig. 18, for the purpose of facilitating withdrawal, but in order to prevent any chance of their disarrangement, and to secure a'complete and effective withdrawal of the stitch plate from the stitches I have given to said plate the reciprocating motion already described, and this motion is so timed that the plate is reciprocated backward so Aas to withdraw it from the stitches-only at those moments in which the 'needles are in the materials and thus in addition to the general support aforesaid also securely hold them from any disturbance through any stress caused by the backward movement of the plate.

Owing to the peculiar form of the bed plate already alluded to and the posit-ion of the needles feed and edge preparing mechanisms relative thereto, it will be observed that the materials as they are united by my process are proportionately fed off of the bed plate and cloth plate and out of the way of theloperator. This arrangement of the parts is of great convenience particu-v larly in those cases in which the making of al seam results in the production of articles of substantially tubular form, suchfor instance, as hose, shirts and drawers or other mechanism, I- wish it understood that m in- .ventions are not limited to use with t ese, v.but may be Autilized also with other forms' of stitching andfeeding mechanisms. A

It will'also be understood that, `wit-hout departing from my .present inventions, other .forms-ot stitches and seams other than those.

u i shown in the drawings and hereinbefore described might be produced.

What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. -In a sewing machine. the` combination withl'a stitch-forniing mechanism comprising one or more needles, a reciprocating s titcli plate or last 95,' movable forward in the direction of the feed of the work, and

backward directly opposite to'the direction y of said feed, and in'eans' for so moving the same forward when the needlefor needles are out of the goods and also for so moving the same backward when theneedle or needles are in the goods.

2. In a sewing machine the combination `with a stitch forming mechanism comprising one or'niore needles and a feeding mechanism, of a tapered stitch plate or .last and 't means .for moving thefsame backward in a direction directly opposite to that of the feed of thework while the needle or needles arein `the work and forwardyin the `direc.

tion of the feed while the needle or needles are out of the work.

^ 3. The combination with a. stitch forming and feeding mechanism of a non-feeding stitch-slacking tongue or finger extending longitudinally in the direction of the seam across which aV series of two or more con-I secutive stitches are formed, and means for reciprocating said tongue in thedirection of the seam.

4. In a sewing machine the combination with a stitch forming mechanism compris lng one or more needles and a lower thread carrier cooperating therewith, of a feeder, a bed or throat plate provided with f an opening or slot anda-tongue horizontally movable in the direction of the feed of the work andthe length of the seam, and armj ranged to' work in said slot, and across which tongue a series of two-or more consecutive stitches are laid, and means for so laying such stitches. l

5. In a sewing machine mechanism in combination with a stitching mechanism and with a .feeding mechanismV a longitudinally reciprocating stitch plate or last 95, em-

braced by, and supporting a series of two or "more consecutive stitches against disarrangement yfrom thread tension, and means 1 for reclprocating said stitch plate in directions parallel with the direction of the horizontal movement communicated by said' feeding mechani's'mto thel materials-stitched, substantially. as and for the purposes described. l

6. 'In a machine for seaming or sewing together the abutting edges of materials while flying substantially the saine plane; af'

stitching mechanism, a feeding mechanism, a smoothing -plate or foot pivot-ally.,"sup,.

ported above the line ofjuncture -of theiii` sewcd material, and extending on hothsides,

of said line 'andmeans for horizontally Vo s-` cillating or rocking said plate, and','thiis approaching one side thereof toward said line, and simultaneously and correspondingly withdrawing -the other side of said lfoot from said line and alternately reversing said movement.

7. In a machine for seaming or sewing toget-her the abutting edgesot' 'materials the combination with a feeding mechanism and a stitch-forming mechanism comprising two eye-pointed needles, of abcd-plate having one free end, a-stitchslacking tongue or finger extending longitudinally in the'direction of said free end of said bed-plate .and lanedge preparing device'disposed so as to operate in advance of the eye-pointed needles. e

'8. In a sewing machine lthe combination of a stitch forming-mechanism employing and means for actuating it, to lay a fourth or bindingthread-back and forth over the line of juncture of the goods and under' the threads of the double series of loop stitches produced by the said needles and their respective threads, substantially as and for the purposes described. Y

9. In a machine for seaming, or sewing, -together the abutting edges of materials, 4 the combination, with a feeding mechanism :and a stitch-forming mechanism comprising two reciprocating eye-pointed needles, Vof a bed-plate having one free end,' a stitchslacking tongue disposed and supported mediallybetwecn said needles and extend-A ing longitudinally inthe direction of said free end of said bed-plate, and means for reciprocating said tongue in the direction of the seam.

l 10. In a machine for seaming, or sewing,

together the abutting edges of' materials, 1

the combination, with a feeding mechanism ,and a stitch-forming mechanism comprising two 'reciprocating eye-pointed needles, of a bedfplate having-one free end, anedge preparing device disposed soas to operate in Nav,

advance of said eye-pointed. -needles, andmeans for horizontally oscillatig saidedgepreparing device.

11'. In a machine for seaming, or sewing,I -together the-abutting edges of materials, the

combination, with a feeding mechanism and a stitch-forming mechanism: comprising two reciprocating eye-pointed. needles, of a bedplate comprising a stitch-slacking tongue extending centrally ybetwee'n said needles and longitudinally in' the direction of `the,

seam, and means for reciprocating said tongue inthe direction of said seam.A

12. In a machine for searning, 44Vorsewing,- together the abutting edges of materials, the

combination, with a feeding mechanism and a stitchforming mechanism comprising two reciprocating eye-pointed needles, of afbed#l plate having one free end, an edge-preparing device disposed and supported so as to operate'e'qually on both said abutting edges in. advancefof said eye-pointed needles, and. means for horizontally oscillating or rockj,v

ing said edge preparing device.

13. In a machine for seaming or sewing A together the abutting edges of material to form tubular goods, a recurvate or U-sbaped horn comprising two oppositely iis-posed.

portions` connected together by -a .third thereto transversely disposed portion, one end of one of said oppositely disposed portions being free and said portion supported by said transverse portion, a head disposed transversely of said oppositely disposed poitions and extended to overhang said free end, a pair of eye-pointed needles carried by said head, means to reciprocate said needles,

means independent of said needles to feedA the goods toward said free end, 'means care ried by said head to` lay a cross-binding thread above and across said abutting edges of materials,- 4and means carried by said horn to lay a cross-binding thread beneath and across the abutting e.' terials.-

14. In ai'nachine' for seaming or sewing Vtogether the abutting edges of materials to form tubular goods, 'a recurvateor U-shaped horn comprising two oppositely disposed portions connected together by `a third end," cpair of eye-pointed 'nee dges of said ma' thereto. transversely disposed, portion', one end of one of said oppositely disposedpor-V tions, being free and said portion supportedL 'by -id transverse portion, a head f disposed transversely 'of said oppositely disposed por- 55v tions and extended` to overhang said free dle's carried vbysa h ead, ineans toreciprocate said needles, means vto feed the goods toward said free end, fa stitch slacking tongue disposed between said needles andextending in direction of said feed, means carried by said head to lay a cross-binding thread above and'v across said abutting edges of materials, means carried by saidl horn to lay a cross binding thread beneath and across the abutting edges of said materials,

'a movable edge preparing device disposed in advance of said needles and means to vertically move. said edge preparing device. 7o

tions being ree and said portion supported by said transverse portion, a head supported' by one of said oppositely7A disposed 8o portions and extended transversely thereof to overhang said tree end of the otherv of said portions, a pair'of eye-pointedlneedles carried by said head, means to reciprocate 'said needles, means to feed the goods toward 85- said'free end, a stitch slacking tongue disposed between said needles and extending in direction of said feed, an edge prepar# ing device disposed in advance of said needles, means carried by said head to lay a 90 cross-binding thread aboveand across said abutting edgesof materials, and means c arried by saidhorn'to lay a cross-binding thread .beneath and across the abutting edges of said materials. 1

HERBERT E. HAVVES.

Witnesses:

' HOWARD J. Hiin'r, WM. C. Droit.

together by a third 

